Paris; The Land of Too Much Pastry, Not Enough Stomach...

Bonjour mes amis!

I am back in Barcelona after spending the most wonderful week in the city of lights, or as I like to say, the land of too much pastry not enough stomach, i.e. Paris. This was a whirlwind of a week, full of excitement, anticipation, laughter and learning. I wish I had been able to blog about my falling in love with Paris whilst it was happening, but sadly, wifi is not easily found in Paris. So here goes.

Day one:

Brianne and I arrived in Paris at about 5:30 pm last Wednesday. While the Vuelling flight was only an hour and a half, it left us tired. With full on backpacking pack strapped to my back we sent out for a way to make it from the Orly airport into Paris. Now remember all the wonderful opportunities I encountered in Barcelona, well Paris had its fair share. We bought our Orlyval train tickets, 11 Euro, jumped on what we thought was the train going in the right direction, but found ourselves confused when every, and I mean every passenger got off the train at the second terminal. This posed a bit of a dilemma. After making our way down to the Orly SUD terminal we manned up and asked en Francais, where to go. Unfortunately this left us walking through the entire terminal to get back on the train we had gotten off. Brianne had packed a duffle bag, so this journey was slightly less enjoyable for her. Once on the train again, I got out the trusty metro map to see where we had to catch the train to take us to our hostel. Well that 11 Euro ticket required us to switch trains 4 times, but it eventually got us to Port du Bagnolet. From here it was a saddening 5 blocks to our hostel. However once we arrived, we were greeted by a three person room, and now roommate in sight. The hostel wasn't luxurious by any means, but it was pretty much what I expected due to other past travel accommodations. This whole experience however, was new to Brianne, and possibly one she may choose not to repeat. But she got through the communal showers, and lack of personal bathroom like a champ!

As we were both very tired we determined that groceries and bed time were both within close proximity. So we hit up the local market for some snacks and easy dinner options. If you didn't know, Paris is super ballsy when it comes to prices. Meaning, you're expected to pay 4 Euro, that's like $5.40, for a can of Coke... Dibs out! So with our cart filled with crackers, cookies, juice, and French ichiban noodles, we were set for any monetary setbacks Paris might throw our way.

We ended up having a roommate after all when we got home. A Japanese girl, on route to doing aid work similar to my work with Habitat for Humanity, only building schools in France and Togo. It was invigorating to meet someone who had such similar values. As we settled in for the night I began to keep a journal in an effort to not forget the most important moments. I made the mistake of not bringing a book, so the spare pages of my day planner turned out to be a much needed friend. While our bunk beds reminded me of Caraway Camp, and living in residence, I was excited for the days ahead. This is what I came here for. A change of scenery, to see the world, and to experience culture in every way possible.

Day 2:

Brianne and I woke up with invigorated minds, excited for our day at the Louvre. We began with the hostels breakfast. A feast of natural yoghurt, orange juice, baguette, ham, cheese, corn flakes and jam. I know it doesn't sound so bad, but after six consecutive breakfasts of bread, bread, and more bread, bread get's pretty boring. But little did that matter. We were in Paris after all! So with appetites suppressed, but minds still hungry, we set out for the Louvre.

Now I must comment on the Metro system in Paris, as it frequently comes up in my journeys around Barcelona.

Pros of the Paris Metro

SUPER easy to navigate. None of that multiple trains stopping sometimes at one stop, but not always weirdness.

VERY, and I mean very regular! Literally never more than minutes apart.

Very diverse musical entertainment. We heard a singer, a violinist, a guitar player, and a saxophonist, and harmonica, accordion.

And lastly, extremely thorough. It literally goes everywhere.

Now for the Cons

Extremely dirty. So dirty in fact, there are two smells. The better of the two smells like this banana flavored liquid medicine I took when I was maybe 4 or 5. You know the one mom, I don't remember what I was taking it for, but it was so gross that you had to motivate me by giving me those little punch out cardboard bugs. Yup the better smell smells like that. Sweet and sticky, yet utterly repulsive at the same time.

The second smell is that out an outhouse. Now this isn't just any outhouse. Brianne and I characterize this outhouse as one that has reached its holding capacity, and then was placed in a small greenhouse which had been given 24 hour exposure to constant sunlight for several centuries. Yup it was that bad.

Sadly there were also a lot of homeless people living in the metro stations. As they were not monitored by those employed by the Paris Metropolitan, it made a viable option to seek refuge from the cool Parisian nights. While these people never once bothered anyone from what we could see, it was still unnerving to see them struggling so dearly.

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Alright, so on to the Louvre. Now everyone says you cannot do the entire Louvre in one day. So to me, that pretty much sounds like a Challenge. Let me tell you, having done about 75% of the Louvre, it's not the sheer size that is unattainable, it's the maze-like structural floor plan, with all its twists and turns that leaves you completely disoriented, and repeating things you've already marvelled at. That being said, we did manage to see everything we really wanted to. We got to hang out with Mona and chill in Napoleon's house. It was also a perk that we managed to get into the Louvre for free when we asked for student tickets, and the lady gave us the European Union fee student rate. We did feel like the lady in that IKEA add when she saved so much money she felt like she was getting away with something too good to be true and starts yelling at her husband 'START THE CAR!!! START THE CAR!!!" All in all, it was pretty interesting. The one thing that truly shocked me was the utter grandeur of some of the paintings. While they were marvellous in every sense of the word, I couldn't help but wonder how an artist painted a work that was over 50 times their size. I still have no answers.

With sore feet and hungry belly's we went to make our way out of the Louvre in search of Las du falafel. A falafel house in the Jewish quarter with exception and well deserved trip advisor ratings. Now something unexpected about the Louvre is that there is a shopping mall, basically embedded underneath the ground. These shops, including and Apple outlet where we tried to use the internet for free to no avail as French keyboards are WHACK, come the crux of the upside down pyramid, where there happens to be a Marriage Frères tea store. This eased Brianne's sore toes only long enough to realize that the Louvre had stolen her favorite scarf. From here we ventured around the area retracing our steps, and believe it or not, but mostly do because it happened, Brianne was elated to find that some lovely soul had turned it into the lost and found. So with scarf wrapped boldly around her neck we began our trek for the famous falafel house.

Now this was quite the trek, and our tummies were grumbling, but upon finding this little hole in the wall we consumed the most wonderful falafel either of us had ever tasted. And it was cheap too!! It was soooo good that we went back the Next day; a theme which you will see is one of reoccurrence for Brianne and I in Paris. Having only used half of the afternoon due to our punctual departure from the hostel, we chose to wander down Champs D' Elyssee and found the Arc de Triamphe. Let’s just say its way cooler than the one in Barcelona.

From here we figured "When in Paris" and continued our walk down to the most Parisian monument of all, Le Tour Eiffel. Now it was a very foggy day, my curls had fallen out and Brianne's glasses were speckled with tiny water droplets, so we decided to save the grand experience of gallivanting to the top of the tower for a sunnier afternoon. This being said, we still managed to take some wonderful photos.

With our eyes full of wonder we managed to wander down the park and into the streets where we eventually decided it was time for a cup of noodles while putting our overworked feet up, back at the hostel.

Day 3:

This day began in a way one would typically be unappreciative of, our roommate felt the need to get up at 5 am to pack for her next excursion, and however, Brianne and I kept our chins up. We were going to Versailles today. After the ritual bread, bread and more bread breakfast, we made our way to the metro and began our journey to the Chateau Versailles. This journey was of course stopped when we realized we may not have gotten the right train ticket, and being good, honest Canadians, we weren't going to try our luck, so we asked a nice lady at one of the train stops if we needed a new ticket. Turns out it was a good thing, as we did need a slightly more expensive ticket. Back on board we continued our journey. Upon reaching the Chateau I realized two things. This really was a Palace, and cobblestones are good for no-one, no matter how practical your footwear is. This place was utterly amazing. From the intimate details to the history I felt I was directly in the middle of, Versailles is a place where my history books truly came alive, and all those hours studying for my IB exams in high school soaked up the reward of being where it really happened.

We met a lovely English girl who was studying education in Madrid on our walk through the gargantuous gardens. It was wonderful and puzzling all at once as we compared notes on our education program and hers. She too thought it was weird that we finished our practical experience a semester before we graduated, and understood our thirst to experience education in another world first hand. After all she did move from England to Madrid to complete her studies.

Like I said earlier we found our way back from some much needed falafel. From here we wandered the streets of the Jewish and Latin quarters searching for the best looking bakery to try my first ever macaroon. Now let me tell you, this experience was one all in its self. Almost as good as the entirety that is Versailles only centered with a buttery chocolate filling, wrapped with decadent light, chewy brownie on crack tasking pastry. Eating my chocolate macaroon was like biting into a cloud filled with everything good in the world and hugged by Aphrodite herself. Oh my Pop is all I have to say. A saying I sometimes use instead of Oh my God, as my Grandfather who passed away in the 3rd year of my undergrad was deemed Pop, and has proved to me on several occasions that he's the man in my Sky keeping me safe.

Day 4:

Today was our day for more Latin Quarter wandering, Ile de Cite wandering and Shakespeare himself. We began our venture to the Notre Dame Cathedral. This experience of wonderful history was topped off with a live mass happening before our eyes, and a poster for a concert of Bach organ music and Gregorian Chant saying "C'est Soir!" Brianne and I being the music devotees that we are, decided then and there that we must see this concert, and therefore needed to coach our sleepy feet into allowing us to stay out until the concert doors opened at 8:00 pm. So the wandering began as planned in pursuit of finding Shakespeare.... & Company.

This is a book shop where Hemmingway spent a great deal of time. It looks exactly how an old European bookshop should, with books stacked in every nook and cranny the eye can find. While it’s busy with avid seekers of culture through literature, scanning the shelves with my fingers and eyes sent me back to tenth grade when I discovered the pure magic that is the Rutherford Library at the University of Alberta. Every spine revealing hints of stories to be read, places to be discovered and love to be shared. Brianne and I spent close to an hour searching for the books we would remember buying and keep for the rest of our lives. A certain impressionistic book cover spoke to me several times while I searched in wonder of this great place. For some reason, regardless of the 28 Euro cost, my fingers kept finding the rough, unfinished pages of ‘The Girl in the Blue Beret.” Figuring that it was destined to be, I had the book stamped by Shakespeare & Company upon my purchase. I couldn’t wait to get into the tale of an American aviator rediscovering his journey home from France after being shot down in the Second World War.

Brianne and I, now hungry, found ourselves browsing through the many restaurants in the Latin quarter. After seeing so many plat du jours, we settled for ‘Le Bistro 30” for a 10 Euro lunch that was possibly the best French food we had ever had. Beginning with French Onion Soup, followed by our choice of dill and salmon Taglitelle, and sealing the deal with a wonderful crème caramel. This meal was so divine, and rewardingly inexpensive, we came back for round two on our second last day. After lunch we wandered the streets, looking at beautiful buildings, and endearing pastry shops. Now macaroons are very expensive, 1-2 Euros for each toonie sized slice of pure and utter heaven, but by my grandfather’s good graces we found a lovely bakery, Paul, which sold us 12 for 8.50. A STEAL!!

So with our books, our macaroons, and other little trinkets we picked up, we managed to stay out and keep our feet from falling off long enough to attend a glorious concert at the Notre Dame Cathedral.  The concert was fantastic. And the venue made it even more special. Knowing that many of the composers who dance on the pages of my history books, and created music like the magic from Cinderella’s fairy god mothers’ wand, out of thin air, made the experience overwhelmingly brilliant. It was like I could taste the music. Every sweet and sour.

Day 5:

Our mission for day five was both a visit to the Sacre Coeur basilica, and an afternoon spent marvelling at the works of Monet, Manet and Van Gough, at the Musee d’Orsay. Unfortunately we weren’t able to take any photographs inside the basilica so appropriately named Sacred heart. But we were able to watch/ attend the mass that was being held that beautiful Sunday morning. While walking down the steps of the basilica we snapped some much needed memories, while boldly navigating the pushy ‘artists’ as they say, wanting to sell us handmade bracelets of embroidery thread. It was a short walk, back to the metro line where we scouted our route to Musee d’Orsay. Here we spent hours basking in the glory of great impressionist painters. I, like my dear, and immensely educated friend Jamie Meyers- Riczu who demanded I see this gallery, found the creations at Orsay more intricate and relatable than many of the works in the grand Louvre. Again, I felt the artists’ histories coming alive as the brush strokes and blending of colours took me back to those distant years.

We chose a to go lunch of drink, sandwich and desert on the steps of the museum. Let me tell you, smoke salmon and brie make one amazing sandwich. As we ventured on, we took the rest of the day to enjoy the little things Paris had to offer, lovely streets, pretty shops, fantastic sites everywhere you look. We stumbled upon another church having mass, it was Sunday, and even the churches not known for their beauty here are far more beautiful than any I’ve seen in Canada.

Day 6:

Brianne and I were on a quest to find Pandora charms to purchase in memory of our superb friendship and our trip to Paris. Fortunately, we were able to find some at Galleries Lafayette, a fancy department store we had been told to see. It was also very close to the Opera House which we visited the day before. After choosing which charms would best suit our experience, I picked a tea cup, and no, Pandora doesn’t make an Eiffel tower charm. Absolutely retarded, they would make millions instantly, I know. We made our way down to the Gourmet food market which was on our list. Now imagine a place like SunTerra. Now imagine SunTerra on crack, only crack that actually makes all things amazing and has no miserable repercussions. That is the Lafayette food market. It was amazing. We purchased many a thing here. Mostly to take home.

Following this trip we thought we needed to see the big guy one last time, and take advantage of the sun. So we made our way via metro to the tower one more time. Stood in line for an hour before riding the lift to the second level, the top was closed. Sad face…. Kind of. Anyone who knows me well enough knows I’m terrified, and I mean terrified of heights. However, I am also not one to turn down something I may only get to do once in my life. So we went as far up as we could. And was it amazing. Of course!

Hungry as can be we went back for a late lunch to le Bistro 30. It was just as wonderful as the first time, and gave our feet some necessary recovery time. From here we decided we needed to find locks to lock to the bridge of love locks over the sien, just behind Notre Dame. If you’re standing on the mainland side of the bridge looking at Notre Dame across the way, count till you find the 18^th fence post, and right in the middle you’ll find a small lock displaying ‘Bryndan + Jason. Jan 18.’ The beauty of this bridge with all its locks displaying memories of love so pure and kind, is a Parisian experience in its own right. Breathe taking. After some further wandering we met up with friends Mark and Holly, Brianne’s former Saxophone teachers who are now living and studying in Paris. They took us to a local crepery where we enjoyed the most amazing crepes I’ve ever had. I wish Apple would make an App that would allow you to upload photos of glorious food, and then users could open the App and lick their iPhone and taste the delicacies in the photos. Ok I’ll admit it, not the most hygienic of ideas… but you know you’ve wanted to try some of the things I’ve shared with you.

Dinner was followed by the consumption of lovely cervesas at the Great Canadian pub. A local pub Holly and Mark frequent. We met up with many of their school friends also studying music here in Paris. It was nice to be able to talk to people whose interests lay parallel with yours.

Day 7:

After staying out with Mark and Holly till the metro stopped running, we took the option on sleeping in a little at the hostel. Bread-fast was served till 11 so this was totally reasonable. Once we packed and locked up our bags, now heavier with goodies, we departed for probably my favorite sight in Paris, the Pierre Lachaise Cemetery.  This grand cemetery houses some of the most brilliant people known in history. In particular, some of the most influential artists in my life.  With my paper napkin list and a photo of the cemetery’s map, we set out to say hello to those utterly brilliant people. I visited Rossini, well kind of, he’s not there anymore as he is back in Italy, on the eve of his 220^th birthday, and thanked him for the music that inspired me to sing. I visited Isadora Duncan, whose remains were in the crematorium, and thanked her for the guidance she gave me while learning how to express myself through contemporary dance, and her teaching me to love every inch of the earth. I visited Chopin, Bellini, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Poulenc, and with every embrace I felt more grounded to the earth and yet perfectly released by the beauty of the universe. This was my favorite place in Paris. I could have spent hours wandering the final houses of beloved souls.

Sadly, there was a plane ticket with my name on it in my bag, and a sleepy best friend looking forward to a wonderful sushi, yes sushi, lunch prior to our saying adieu to Paris.

It was the trip of a life time. However hopefully not the only one in mine. After all, Jason has to come see our love locked to the bridge.

Xoxo

B